Art of Travel Blogs
The traveler, the vacationist, the student
we dont all travel for that authentic experience
When I got my week of liberty during Spring Break I encountered even more of these viajeros and for a short week I got to feel like one of them, lugging my large backpack around, buying groceries and cooking at the hostel to save money, travelling by bus, being in the sun for hours, re-wearing the same clothes, and changing places by the day in order to be able to see as many colorful mountains, waterfalls, and small pueblos as I can. I remember talking to the 25 year old owner of the hostel I was staying at in Tilcara, a small village in the province of Jujuy. He had invited his guests in the hostel to take a night walk with him to his friend’s small house in the mountains in celebration of the full moon. On the walk back to the village, I asked him about the type of people he receives at his hostel in general and if older people ever came to stay there. He contested that when older people come, they are usually older people with younger spirits, and that sometimes when older people come that he can tell would not fit the vibe he tells them there is nor more room. “All I do is give people soap, a bed, and breakfast, that’s all. And sometimes I can tell that some people who come expect a certain service that I do not provide, and I would rather not host them, because I know that they would only have complaints.” Additionally he told me, “I prefer to host travelers (viajeros) rather than tourists. Travelers never complain. I have travelled to Bolivia, Peru, Guatamala, Venezuela, Brazil, and I have stayed in some hostels where there is not even hot water. I know the place that I have here is very nice,” he told me. I have to agree that it was one of the nicest hostels I had stayed in during that trip.
It made me think about what he was trying to tell me. As I met more people, I realized he was right. The traveler needs a place to sleep and shower that is just another one of his transitory homes. The tourist is looking for a ‘hotel experience’, the tourist wants to feel like a guest.
There is something very interesting in this distinction between the viajero, the tourist, and then…the student? The temporary resident? The extranjero like me? I don’t know how I would really be classified in Buenos Aires.
What is it that the viajero is in search for and how does it differ from the others? What is it that he wants to see or accomplish in his travelers? For the traveler, travelling becomes his occupation, not a vacation. He knows that he is now a vagabond. He is travelling in order to feel homeless, and to fully enter a state of constant unfamiliarity that is as far as you can get from the cotidiano.
McCannel says that that “sightseers are motivated by a desire to see life as it is really lived, even to get in with the natives, and, at the same time, they are deprecated for always failing to achieve these goals. The term “tourist is increasingly used as a derisive label for someone who seems content with his obviously inauthentic experiences” (592). In my opinion, it really all depends on what kind of ‘sightseer’ you are. We students came here to speak and befriend Portenos, study their history and language, and live amongst them in their city, with intentions to really seek the “authentic experience”. Travelers however, viajeros like my cousin know all too well that as tourists who migrate by the day they will not gain any sense of real life in the places they travel. They are happy with obviously inauthentic experiences because they know that is all they can get as outsiders. They are not in search of knowing the “real Buenos Aires” or the real Argentine, but rather they want see beautiful landscapes, and walk through foreign villages in which everything is different. I think that McCannel’s “back-front ditchonomy” holds true in life in general as well as in tourism, however not every type of tourist is in search of seeking a view from the back. It is true that all tourists want to see things that are foreign to them, however the way that they look at these things and what they think of them completely varies from one type of tourist to another.
- dana's blog
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A disappointing travel narrative
When travel writing becomes more like reporting
Although I love traveling, and therefore feel as if I should have been as dazzled and intrigued by Bruce Chatwin’s famous travel tale In Patagonia as so many other people seem to be, I just couldn’t get into the book. I tried to give it time, hoping that I would become more engaged as the story went on, however the story continued in its fragmented un-orienting way of talking about different unrelated people throughout his Chatwin’s travels. Both my professor praised the book in class, and I read many good reviews, but for some reason I could not maintain interest.
I am presuming that the book’s style is supposed to mimic the disorienting and transitive traits of traveling, however I could not manage to value the tails of different random characters because they always seemed like unrelated digressions. Each mini biography and each character listed appeared in a manner which made me feel as if they would not be relevant in the grand story and therefore easily ignorable, however to my disappointment there never ended up being a grand narrative plot. Furthermore I felt like the novel focused too much on people and not enough one other aspects that would root me to the different geographies he was travelling through. His book could not bring me on the journey along with him nor capture the sentiments of travel that I love.
Contemplating the value of this book made me think about what I would have do differently if I decided to write a book about my big trip I dream to take in the future. When thinking about the kinds of thoughts I had about the people I met and the places I went when I travelled to Northern Argentina during Spring Break I certainly can not relate to Chatwin’s impression of travel he creates through his style of writing. First of all, I feel that all of my descriptions and my stories would always be inevitably connected to me, in that I would not be able to just describe the lives of the people I meet as if I was a third person narrator writing a fiction piece as Chatwin often does. I feel that if I were to write a travel piece I would be obliged to capture what I think is the essence of traveling—the ways in which all the new things you see are foreign to you, and compare to all the things you already know. What I like about travelling is how every new landscape you come across, culture you are introduced to, and strange person you meet, makes you rethink your previous perception of life in general. When I think back about my memories of my travels I know that my opinions and my point of view would inevitably have a much larger role in the narrative.
- dana's blog
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Parting is Such Terrible, Terrible Sorrow
How I never, ever want to leave Ghana (today).
Even though I once thought New York was the once place I’d feel at home, from the moment I arrived there. I daydreamed about filling suitcases and hopping planes. I flirted with New York but never gave it a commitment. It was a love affair I refused to consummate, not matter what the city promised me, no matter that I had picked it, and not the other way around. Instead I drowned myself in all the joy and heartbreak I had brought back from India and pretended it was New York’s fault. Eventually we realized it wasn’t working out, New York and I, and I took my nomad heart elsewhere. I needed to find out if my love for my adopted home was singular, or if I would fall in love with anywhere I traveled. On a whim that I later justified by academic relevance, I packed my bags again, and arrived in Ghana.
Ghana only reminded me my heart had miles yet to go until I figured the world out. It was not an earth shaking revelation but rather snuck up on me while writing blog posts, stewing over photo assignments, and as I tried to motivate myself to at least go out and get a beer. There were flashes when I saw the Ghana my friends had fallen in love with, but even when I loved those moments it felt like cheating. If India was a love affair, we broke up after figuring it wouldn’t work long distance, but the feelings are still there. I’m not sure I can love anywhere else again; it’s ruined me for all other places. To go back to see its familiar streets felt like going home, but it also felt like stepping into a dream. It also felt like sobering up, washing my face and remembering what real life is. In hindsight, I know I did not spend the semester learning about Ghana but rather learning about myself, how to be myself, and still leave bits of me wherever I go. How to carve up chunks of my heart and leave them places so they can give me something in return, if only the feeling of having missed something. I came to Ghana to run away, to disappear and press pause on my racing heart. Since wherever you go, there you are, all I found was an insatiable desire to be everywhere at once. With too many plans and no idea where they will take me, I have taken these past few months to remind myself of all the things I had forgotten since I left that small town north of Boston. Some people go home to locate themselves, and to remember home; I went to Africa.
Seems right to me. Ghana changed how I thought about myself, how I contextualized myself. In the eye of the hurricane, on the cusp on coming and going, ko bra, I stand on the wreckage of my former self. I remember this feeling all too well, knowing that you’ve changed but not knowing how, that breathless anticipation of returning combined with the ache of leaving a life that you absolutely cannot go back to. Its bittersweet but mostly it is addicting, beguiling you with exotic images of the things you have seen while causing you to confidently forget for just a moment all the small wrenchings of the heart that one experiences when living elsewhere. Compared to the biggest wrenching of all, the tearing of the new you from your current context, every moment of boredom and sadness disappears, and you are left with a glow constructed of every happy memory, of new friendships and days drunk on sunlight, nights just drunk. The glow of feeling down to your soul of sheer wonder and exhilaration of everything, everything new and everything possible, every time you step on and off a plane. That glow has become my addiction; it the particular shade of limelight that matches my pale complexion.
Before I came to Ghana, my concept of myself was narrow, limited. This semester has put me in my place, rightfully, with far less self-importance and far more wonder. About to step back onto a plane, rocketing toward my old life, I am drunk on wild possibility. This time, I want to make it last, take it back with me and grow it in the greenhouse of my soul, let the sun and make it grow instead of locking it back into myself. When I came back from India, I was so scared; of what, I am still not sure. Of being too different, of losing identity in order to gain a new one. Now, suitcases packed and out on the sidewalk, I am laying claim to my wandering heart and feet, which will lead me to new continents and a new selves. Beverly gave me a base to stand on, India gave me my locomotion; Ghana may give me my wings. Maybe I won’t know what Ghana has given me until I arrive in Buenos Aires, seasoned study abroad student and travel extraordinaire. Or maybe I’ll have the wind knocked out of me and replaced with the Spanish languages, and I’ll start the process of confusion again in Prague. Locust, nomad, tornado, I am whirling through the world and coming to rest only when I have spent my dervish energy, and I refuse to look behind me. As Kwame Nkrumah said, ever forward, never backward. Now, going backward and forward at the same time, my impulse is both to hold on tight and jump into the fray.
The picture is mine, from the final group trip to Wli Falls.
- HaleyWho's blog
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A Mannerist "Epiphany" of Sorts
Grocery shopping for masterpieces
One of my last days in Florence began with a trip to the Bargello Museum with two of my classmates. For our final project for Art collecting and Museology, we were required to curate an exhibition at a museum in Florence, and we chose the Bargello, my personal favorite museum in Florence (it’s got Donatello’s David). Once we were through planning our exhibition, I left my classmates and decided to go grocery shopping. The grocery store I most often frequent is one that is across the Ponte Vecchio, which, at this time of year, is impossible to get across without taking out a few tourists.
Since I got to Florence, I had been hoping to see Pontormo’s Deposition, but for some reason had not taken the time to actually find it. I knew it was in the church of Santa Felicita, close to the Ponte Vecchio, but had always been in too much of a hurry across the Ponte Vecchio to remember to go to this church. Since it was one of my last days, I decided I would take the time to find it, despite looming final papers and projects.
Literally one block past my grocery store was the Piazza Santa Felicita. Everything in Florence has strange hours, so part of me was afraid it wasn’t going to be open. Thankfully, the doors were open, and I entered. This small church took me by surprise. I gaped at its beauty and began to search for the Deposition, a quest that took about 10 seconds, as the legendary painting is located directly to the visitor’s right hand side upon entering.
I stared at it in the dim church lighting and wondered why it wasn’t lit better. This is a Mannerist painting, after all. Let me see the colors! A group of American tourists entered after me, loudly asking one another for a euro. (They obviously knew this system better than me) An old lady in the church quickly shushed them, and I showed them I had a euro, which I then proceeded to stick in a machine that immediately lit up the small chapel.
I stood there with my head pressed against the gate of the chapel, eyes agape at the tangible motion and luminescent colors until the lights went out.
Then I went grocery shopping.
(for reference)
- Harrison's blog
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A Reflection
What I have learned and how I have changed
I think the most rewarding aspects of the experience was improving my Spanish and learning to be comfortable expressing myself in another language. I feel like studying in Spanish has improved my communication skills as a whole and expanded my understanding about communication theory in general. In my courses, not only have I had to do the same type of critical thinking that I normally do in school, I also had to read and understand the reading in Spanish, listen to lectures in Spanish, and express my thoughts in class in Spanish. When writing or speaking in English, I often want to mix Spanish words in my sentences that express my ideas more precisely than any word I can immediately think of in English. However more generally I feel that by studying another language I have been forced to think much more about words, sentences, and grammar as tools of communication because I suddenly am using a whole new set of rules to communicate that are not built into me from youth.
I haven’t yet thought about what I think will be different in me when I return home. I will definitely know much more about Argentina and the Spanish Language, that’s for sure. However I wonder if I will rethink about my own country, our language, our politics, and our cultural norms. I am so used to studying these things here that perhaps the comparison will make me understand the “United States” in a different way, or at least all the different United States I know: New York, California, and the rest through literature.
After my experience here I know that I want to come back someday to travel through South America and see the other Latin American countries and people. I can’ help but imagine what it wil be like to be back in Buenos Aires when I return in a few years…
- dana's blog
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Tips for future students
Go study abroad!!
With this in mind, I would recommend that a student coming to study here who speaks Spanish well should go study at the University of Buenos Aires rather than NYU Global Site. I say this because I think that if a student desires to really be integrated in the circles here of both academia and social life he/she needs to be circling in the Argentine institutions rather than a New York institution located in Argentina. Although it is possible to break out of the American “bubble” of the NYU academic center by going out and participating in outside activities or by meeting people at bars, I can imagine that attending classes with Argentine people at the University of Buenos Aires campuses would be a cultural experience on a whole other level. Although the academic center is nice because it is small, homey, and friendly, if you have adequate Spanish I think that studying outside of NYU would give you a much more radical experience!
Regarding housing I would definitely recommend living in a homestay! First off it is a little cheaper than living in the dorms, and second off it forces you to practice your Spanish and be surrounded by Spanish speaking people while at home. No matter what level of Spanish you are at, homestays always force you to improve and be more culturally integrated. Don’t be afraid of getting a bad homestay, because if you do you can always switch!
The third thing I would say is to balance travelling and staying in the city. Don’t freak out if you find yourself not travelling very much and remember that you came to study in a different country, not to travel the country. Enjoy the city, and try to really find yourself a life here.
- dana's blog
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Invisible Growing
Getting older in Berlin
Let me begin by saying it was a pleasure interacting with all of you through this blog. Where else might I have gotten such strong and insightful feedback not only into my own experience, but by the experiences of others? It is wonderful to see all the differences, and similarities, that all of our own different little worlds produce. It was a grounding experience to know where my own feelings and adventures were quite different than most, and sometimes you all made me very jealous!
As others have mentioned, I'm very glad to have had the opportunity to use this course for moments of reflection. Being able to slow things down for a bit each week (or, unfortunately, sometimes a few times in one week because of catch-up shenanigans) has been a valuable processing strategy for appreciating and modifying my continuing time abroad. It has made me realize how much I can learn on my own, rather than in a classroom or a planned trip, and how much of what I learn can be a very specific opinion that I hold.
I might say that, as others have mentioned, the biggest challenge I have faced here, and life in general, is partitioning my time and getting motivated. When faced with a new place, acclimation, meeting new people and trying to fir in, and keeping up ties with old friends, it becomes hard to focus on my personal future and my studies. As I get older and near graduation it's seeming imperative that I keep track of deadlines and personal project progress- which, when you're trying to just have fun abroad and grow internally, is a constant nag. I am really becoming an adult here, and not just because of the drinking age. I realize that I need to self-motivate, and keep up my personal interests as an activity rather than a passive thought.
My time here has been, and will be, by no means wasted despite my feeling that many of the classes (not, in any case, the professors) are useless to my curriculum. I feel that being in such a motivated city as Berlin, surrounded by people who work hard and self-motivate, has been an incubation period for a lot of great ideas, and a lot of growth into adulthood. Even without the constant stimulation of New york, I've been forced to adapt to a new environment, establish a new work ethic, and take what's given to me and make the best of it. Although I really would have preferred the full-on plunge into Berlin culture that comes with finding my own, non-student-housing, it's been comforting at times (while also annoying and isolating) to be surrounded by the program. Just now I'm beginning to detach, and ready myself for living in a new apartment in Berlin this summer. I think I'm going to be wonderfully surprised at the differences, and perhaps finally begin building my own little community with some fresh faces.
As I return to the States, I know it's going to be different. It won't just be the constant jay-walking, the lack of graffiti, or the plunge back into a life of jobs, internships, and family, but probably the return to familiarity after a distance has been established. I imagine it will be like falling back asleep into an old dream, a dream that may be either enhanced or rendered boring by its familiarity.
- Frauchen's blog
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It’s Just A Question of When
This is no adios (goodbye) to Buenos Aires, its just a hasta pronto (see you soon)
Anyways, I think I may be getting a little ahead of myself. I find it hard to think about the time I have left in the city presently when the future seems to loom ahead of me so frighteningly. When it comes to thinking about the most rewarding part of my experience in Buenos Aires, I think of a few different things. I am so glad to have been able to study Spanish here, and though I’m still far from fluent – not being able to understand half the jokes I’m told or talk to a pharmacist about medicine a few things among many others – I think I’ve made a good amount of progress here and will continue studying Spanish for the rest of my time at NYU. Besides the language, the most rewarding aspect of Buenos Aires has been the city itself and the people that inhabit it. I know that sounds like a really vague statement, but being able to navigate the intricate bus system here, give people directions in Spanish, coming to know so many different cafes, and having fantastic conversations with complete strangers – taxi drivers, retired teachers, foreign travelers, hostel workers, students, tango dancers, the list goes on – has made me really confident in my ability to adapt to a completely new city and environment.
This course has really helped me along in reaching these conclusions as well by forcing me to record my experiences (and I say force in the best kind of way!) and also move beyond them by pondering the different meanings associated with travel, as well as its different facets and the idea of travel as an art. However, I know that I have not been the most habitual blogger, for which I apologize, though this part of the experience has taught me that in order to become a more aware traveler, I need to make more time to record my experiences. In the end though, this course has been a fantastic way for me to feel connected to a larger community of fellow student travelers, and I’m glad to have had you all with me through thick and thin.
I could go on for pages and pages about my experience here and what it has taught me and what I’ll remember in the future, but I don’t want to make anyone fall asleep. The final thing I want to mention is that this experience has shown me that I’ve had a passion laying close to me for all these years, really hidden until this moment. I am completely in love with the Spanish language and learning about the multitude of cultures that speak it. Being here has shown me that this isn’t some passing fancy now and that it never was in the first place; I have been learning Spanish in bits and pieces since elementary school and even though I continue to struggle studying it now, I am totally dedicated to the challenge. And not just the challenge of the language, but the challenge that all of South and Central America hold for me as well.
I do want to travel as much of the world as I can before I die, but I’m pretty sure (and this makes me shake and smile and the same time as I write this) I have found a home here. Not necessarily in Buenos Aires, but somewhere in this continent definitely. When people ask me why I like to travel, the first thing I tell them is that travelling is in my blood. My great grandparents came from various part of Europe and eventually found their ways to England. My parents were both born in England, but realized that though it was their homeland, they could not call it home. Now they have found their happiness in California. My older brother realized that the US was not where he wanted to stay and has since lived in Berlin with his girlfriend and they are planning to move to Europe once again, this time for good. My family members have each found places with which they can identify and in which they are truly happy, and the more I think about it, the more I realize that South America may be that place for me. For me, my return to this continent (and this city) is not a question of if or how or why, but simply a question of when.
- tugzwell's blog
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El Fin Del Mundo
The search for genius loci in the remote Argentine town of Ushuaia
This is the town with the strongest connection to Antarctica, being the place from which all boat cruises depart, weighed down by hundreds of flushed foreign faces eager for an expensive adventure. A small town with two giant casinos, the larger of the two directly facing the harbor as well as a large shipwreck that seems to be in perfect condition (ropes still sway in the wind and lifesavers cling to both sides) except for the network of gaping, rusted holes on one side. A place where next to faded Argentine flags, most doors have large stickers plastered on them telling you one last time that the Falkland Islands are the Malvinas and they belong to Argentina, in case you had forgotten.
But all this is the town itself, and this collection of neat city blocks and small details is all placed in sharp relief against a backdrop of giant snowcapped mountains that create a strange rainbow of colors – white at the top, brownish-gray in the middle, followed by a deep red that fades into green at the very bottom. These mountains are all you can see when you step out of the airport and let the cold air and wind hit you for the first time, when you walk through the sloped streets, slick and shiny black from recent rain, when you take a tour on a boat that lurches through rough water and turn around to get a good look at it all – crushing the small candy dots that are cars and the pinprick steeples of churches with two fingers while not being able to wrap an entire hand around a single mountain.
And every single one of these mountains – there must be more than twenty peaks that you can see if you slowly spin in a half circle at the edge of town closest to the water – they all have names. They each have a name, and the taxi driver that picked you up from the airport pointed each one out to you and told you their names in Spanish, but you couldn’t remember all of them and the German stranger that you shared a cab with wasn’t helping record the names. All the names are lost except Cinco Hermanos (Five Brothers), but even though the five jagged peaks really do make sense of the name, all the names don’t matter. They are all made of earth, all surrounding the town, both cradling it from outside disturbances and at the same time, united against it, effectively cutting it off from the rest of civilization.
- tugzwell's blog
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Colorless Faces and Places
Mundane daily life and societal strain in Buenos Aires as seen in Borges’ short stories
This focus on the ordinary and lackluster character is perfectly summarized in the opening paragraph of Borges’ short story titled The Zahir. He explains that in Buenos Aires, the zahir is an “ordinary coin” (156) with which any person can buy a glass of whiskey, as the main character in the story does. However, after mentioning this mundane fact about money, he weaves an elaborate history of all the amazing things that the word “zahir” once represented – tigers in Guzerat (?) in the 18th century, blind holy men in Java, and a historic astrolabe in Persia. This glorious word and thing have since been reduced to nothing more than a coin, something insignificant, passed from one person to another in automatic daily transactions, completely routine and impersonal. The word is no longer special, and it seems to be that Borges believes the city shares the same fate.
Later in the same story, and after characterizing the city itself, Borges moves on to the people that occupy its space. He discusses the recent death of a notable, upper-class women named Clementina Villar, and is truly saddened by her passing. She is a perfect example of an Argentine socialite, and Borges says “Her life was exemplary, yet she was ravaged unremittingly by an inner despair” (157). This dead woman represents Borges’ opinion on the health of Argentine society – everything looks fine at a glance, but on closer inspection, everyone is suffering and the city only suffocates them further. He focuses on his perceptions of the city’s inhabitants so closely that we become aware that for Borges, the people are the city. The physical city has already begun to fade, and now the people are slowly disappearing into the background with it.
When speaking of the physical spaces within Buenos Aires, Borges uses fantastic diction to make the reader feel as though these places are actually fading away, falling apart in the mind of the author and no longer quite tangible – like trying to grasp onto smoke with one’s hands. Though this isn’t quite apparent in The Zahir, it cannot be ignored in a different short story titled The Waiting, in which Borges describes a residential area of Buenos Aires as a “square plot of earth” with “respectable houses with their little balconies” and “dull lozenges of the paint” (165). The city is plain and lacks any real personality, and though it tries its best to look respectable, it is still falling apart. Borges’ view of the city, as well as his earlier opinions on its inhabitants, don’t really fit with how I view Buenos Aires. I see color flashing through the streets when I ride on various buses and constantly pass by vibrant Argentines, their conversations a blur of fast Spanish and grand gesticulations. However, when I think of Borges’ descriptions and what I have seen of and experienced in the city, I can feel the little similarities. When I look at the once bright aqua of a building’s front, now faded to light sea foam and peeling, I can’t help think of Borges and his frustration with the city that seemed to be slowly falling apart – bit by bit – in front of him while no one else took any notice.
- tugzwell's blog
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