elopez's blog

Perhaps I’ll be in a busy cafe in NYC or trying to eat and study at the same time at Bobst when I’ll reflect upon my study abroad experience and remember the beauty of this time. I appreciate how Madrid has taught me to slow down and enjoy the small details of everyday life.

Honestly, I have loved/hated every moment of this time abroad. It takes a very crazy person to pick up whatever they are doing and decide to move across the world without any comforts of home and live to tell about it. 

Also, I have to say that I have enjoyed this online course. After the first two months of traveling abroad, I began to countdown the remaining days I had abroad. This course has forced me to slow down and reflect on my time here. There have been topics that took me several days to reflect on to answer properly. I really enjoyed reading everyone’s blog and it helped me realize that I am not the only one on this emotional roller coaster.

I think the NYU Madrid program is run very well. I enjoyed all the trips that they had planned for us. The staff is nice. Some teachers are not enjoyable but that’s at every college and university. I really enjoyed that NYU tried to help the students assimilate to the culture and learn more about Madrid. There were some tips that were unnecessary and untrue, I’m sure that’s at every location though. I’m glad that there were enough days off so the students could travel across Europe without missing out on schoolwork. I would suggest, though, a bit more space to study and work because there’s 80 of us and only a 4 tabled study room??? C’mon, we’re still NYU and we want to do well.

Overall, I enjoyed my time abroad. I would recommend NYU Madrid for those adventurous souls who would like to learn more about this hidden European city. You get to understand why it’s hidden. 

All I have to look forward now is the reverse culture shock of NYC: bring.it.on.

Don’t come with any expectations. Bring an open-mind, any expectations are everything someone else has told you and that they are completely different from what you will encounter. Perhaps the only advice and forewarning I can give you is that you are no longer in the United States of America. Yes, this is europe. Yes, this is Spain. Yes, this is Madrid. But they do almost everything a little differently here. Everyday is completely exhausting: mentally and emotionally. 

 

Be prepared to not find the comforts of home. I love Madrid, but it takes more than 4 months to fit in. After living here for a couple of months, I’ve realized that Madrid is not an open city. Sure they like to believe they are multi-cultural but the reality is that they are not. Perhaps its because diversity is such a new concept in Madrid, but they is not a lot of cultural variety. Be prepared to not find a lot of variety or choices in food. If you’re a health nut, Madrid is completely ignorant on any kind of food knowledge. They are not really aware of vegetarianism and will try to convince you otherwise when ordering salads. If you love spicy food, bring your own hot sauce, because Spanish food is not spicy. It’s good but not filling and not healthy.

 

After speaking with my fellow peers, there’s this general consensus: choose an apartment or a homestay with kitchen rights. Try to avoid the homestay option dinner included option, unless you are completely ok with the lack of food variety most Spanish homemakers will cook, or if you’re fortunate enough to get placed with a progressive Spanish family. 

 

Be prepared to be taken out of your comfort zone completely. Madrid is not like a third world country where the culture shock hits you instantly, the culture shock will come in small doses until you finally realize that you’ve been living in a post-Franco country. That mumbo jumbo shpill NYU gives you about Spanish people staring at you, and how their staring habits are just part of the culture is not true. Spaniards are not used to diversity or anyone who doesn’t look like them. So they don’t stare at each other they stare at the ones who are different. So be prepared to be stared at. Just stare back, to us they are different.

 

I don’t regret my decision to come to Madrid. I am glad I have been exposed to this culture and society, because after living in NYC and LA for so long, I never noticed how much I was used to diversity and large cities. Madrid has been a wonderful experience that has open my eyes to another world perspective. Madrid has a great transportation system and it’s easy to discover it’s niches and small barrios. I love the ability to walk everywhere and see their historical timeline. My experiences here are unique to Madrid and post-dictator countries: this is a new kind of democracy. 

 

Be prepared to get caught off guard and shaken up every moment you’re here. 

You think study abroad is going to be this amazing peaceful experience. I’m not suggesting that I have not had an amazing study abroad experience, I have. It just has not been a peaceful experience.

 

Before arriving to Madrid, I had my own set of preconceived notions of this place. I figured I would have a great time and it would not be so difficult since I knew the language and culture. 

 

What I have learned so far, and my epiphany persay, is that study abroad pushes your limits. It takes out of your comfort zone, and makes you feel all alone and scared and sick. At first, I thought I was a pretty strong person, but there have been times where I thought that I couldn’t take one more day here. 

 

The language is difficult, especially taking it in a collegiate level. At first I was afraid that I would never be able to write another paper, but I have. I assumed that I would have a pleasant experience when I come home, but then my homestay runs out of hot water and does not have heat for a week. I figured I would be ok with the food, but then get a terrible stomach bug and am sick for days. All of these things, for some reason, in a study abroad site seem much more frightening and horrible. I thought I would never be able to get through it all and tell this story. But at the end of the day, I’ve learned to laugh it off. Life is not supposed to be taken so seriously at times. 

 

Perhaps it is the environment and the Spanish people that have taught me to enjoy myself regardless of these obstacles. I thought I wouldn’t be able to overcome them all, and I am happy to say that I have. 

 

Study abroad is not an amazing peaceful experience. It pushes you to your limits and you end up realizing this incredible person you have had insider yourself. This person that seems so calm and collected and mature. 

 

Now I know why I everyone loves their study abroad experience. There are those that have been able to discover the corners of the world and others who have discovered the corners of themselves.

Photo: (Sums up Madrid to me)

In regards to this post, it’s a little difficult to write because it seems as though I’m constantly “off balance.” So it makes observing my surroundings more difficult because I’m just worried about staying on balance. 

Madrid is generally full of friendly people. Friendly in the sense that they greet you, but that’s all. It’s the type of friendly where there seems to be an arm’s distance between you and the rest of the people. Not many are open to continue a conversation with you unless you actually know them. 

The doorman at my internship site is a prime example of this. He is a very short and stout man who seems to live by his own rules. He greets those who he wants and that’s all. Thankfully, I have made the conscious effort of greeting him everyday and I hope he likes me, but one can never be too sure. He is typically outside of his post whenever I come around, and always looks upset at everyone. He takes hours for his lunch break, meaning that every one has to carry their own set of keys at all times because he locks the front door. This is especially difficult on the interns, as neither one of us have our own personal key. This means that every time we try to leave we have to group together and make sure someone has a key to be able to leave the building. It’s interesting because this sort of doorman would probably never work in the US, therefore it’s difficult for me to comprehend his role.

But lately, I find a sort of comfort knowing he is around. Yes, he makes my life a little more difficult. And yes, sometimes I’m not sure if he’s going to greet me or lock me out of the building. But at the end of the day, he always nods his head towards me and says “Buenos días.” And sometimes it’s these little things in my daily routine that make it that much better. 

When you first arrive to Madrid, one of the first things you’ll notice is the public’s tidiness. Tidiness in their sense of style, their restaurants, and their homes. Almost everyone in Madrid is well groomed and put together. There are no baggy jeans or flip flops here, if so then that must person is most likely a foreigner. It isn’t even the fact that men and women wear expensive attire, it’s that they are clean and polished. 

 

After living here for 3 months, I have to look in the mirror twice to make sure I am tidy enough to walk the streets of Madrid. This is their genius loci, their ability to overcome a day’s stress and look put together. 

 

Restaurants also seem to follow the same guideline. Almost every hole in the wall locale is, well, a hole in the wall, but nonetheless a tidy hole in the wall. The place mat and utensils are set very precisely and accurately and the bread as well. There’s usually someone who comes around and organizes and cleans the locale every 4-5 minutes. 

 

As I have posted before, Madrid’s public transportation system is one of the cleanest I have ever come across. It is typically polished and clean when I use it. No rats, or trash build up here!

 

This tidiness of Madrid embodies its genius loci for me, at least. My señora works tirelessly to keep her home clean and organized. Once, I decided to ask her why the need to always be so clean and organized. She replied that she wants to make sure that every one knows her home is always at its best. This made me realize that the Madrid is also proud of its image. Proud of its image, its people, its history and itself. This is why the people must walk with their best clothes, ironed and pressed, because they are exhibiting their Spanish pride. 

 

It’s actually very beautiful. This city has overcome so many historical woes, that the fact that it is still standing and by far the most beautiful city I’ve seen is quite an achievement. It’s put-together, and tidy attitude will forever resonate with me. Every morning, I’ll look my best to make sure I don’t let Madrid down.

(Pic: just one of the few clean streets of Madrid)

“I had her watch how Romero took the bull away from a fallen horse with his cape, and how he held him with the cape and turned him, smoothly and suavely, never wasting the bull. [...] Romero had the old thing, the holding of his purity of line through the maximum of exposure, while he dominated the bull by making him realize he was unattainable, while he prepared him for the killing” (The Sun Also Rises, pg. 171-2).

 

I have had the good fortunate of watching a bullfight while in Madrid. I must say though, as much as it is a cruel and unusual sport, it is quite magnificently beautiful too. I didn’t really know much about the technicality of the sport. Even after I don’t understand half of the things that I saw. 

 

At first, I was shocked. I never actually believed it to be so gruesome. There are about 6 toreros and one bull. The odds are completely against this animal. It seems like a taunting game, when the toreros are stabbing it. A game that eventually makes the bull weaker, not because it has spend minutes chasing around these small men but because it is losing a lot of blood. The crowd and I seem to be at opposite ends at first, they are completely amazed while I am horrified at the scene. Like many sport spectators, these people are knowledgeable in the art of bullfighting and can tell when the matador and torero are lazy. They scream and shout insults I cannot even understand.

 

Not until we get to the third bull do I begin to see the beauty of it. I am captivated by the matadors cape and his ability to be agile and free around the beast. Unlike the previous matadors, the young one in purple seems to be full of life and discipline. Like the matador in Hemingway’s book, he knows the beautiful balance of seduction. The crowd and I have our eyes on him and cannot look away. I cannot even wince when it seems like the bull’s horns might crush him. 

 

He moves his cape swiftly around the bull, allowing the beast to grace his side. The bull and the matador become one at the some point where they are so close it’s unimaginable how he will kill it. By this point the bull is captivated by the matador. He is slowly losing blood, but cannot help but follow the seductive cape of the matador. We are all in a trance.

 

Once the matador realizes his opportunity, there seems to be a climax in which he and the bull stare off. It’s this absurd notion where the bull probably knows he is going to die and he’s ok with it. The matador masterfully plunges his sword into the bull. And it’s over.

 

The crowd and I cheer. Cheer because as much as we all knew the bull was going to die, he died more honorably than the bulls before and after him. Like Jake in The Sun Also Rises, I leave the stadium with conflicting emotions: horrified of the cruelty I have just witnessed, and mystified by the beauty of it.

 

Then that is all. The season is over. And the bulls live another day.


(Photo credit: My fantabulous roommate Tatum B. Gormley took this pic)

Madrid is not like any european city I’ve ever visited before. Or any American city. Most of the popular places people like to hang out are typically hole-in-the-wall locales, where the food is slightly expensive and the waiters are rude. I have yet to decipher is phenomenon.

 

I’m far more into the cafes that are everywhere. I’m still not used to the Spanish food, but the coffee is amazing. It’s not necessarily an American coffee or a european expresso. It’s a mixture. My favorite cafe in town is Jamaica Cafe. It’s this tiny cafe with tables on the sidewalk and seemingly friendly waiters. I typically take my homework readings and save a table for myself outside. Just me, my coffee, and Spanish literature.

 

The coffee is great (no refills in this country), the toasted jammed bread is amazing, and the atmosphere is great. I can generally find some piece and quiet during the afternoons, and I can find the hustle and bustle during my morning commute. 

 

I’ve only invited a few special people to this place because it’s incredibly amazing and I would hate to upset the owners with non-native regulars. Not to say that they don’t enjoy new people, but like every mom-and-pop shop, they like their regulars to be people they don’t have to translate everything to.

 

I tend to keep my order simple, and I like to sit and read and people watch for an hour or so. The other regulars are very intersting characters. I love the fact that they feel comfortable enough to share their intimate details with the owners and vice versa. I have yet to participate in these kind of conversations, but hopefully soon.

 

I truly love all cafes, and I don’t discriminate against great tasting coffee, but Jamaica Cafe is by far the most interesting locale.

I’m not really an ‘art’ person. I feel that trips to museums are always so physically and mentally exhausting. Madrid is particularly famous for having the Prado museum. Honestly, I’ve visited this museum once. It is an incredible museum, but because it is so large, it’s a tad overwhelming. 

 

The Prado museum houses over thousands of masterpieces relating to Spanish life. It is located near other amazing museums on its self-titled street Paseo del Prado. This road is parallel to a very differently landscaped park, which adds to the artsy feeling you get if you decide to go to the Prado. There’s an antique church located on the same hill of the museum as well as the only Ritz hotel in town. 

 

Entering the Prado is not so different as entering other famous museums. Security is tight, the lines are long, but besides that you can spend the entire day there. 

 

The Prado museum is divided in chronological order. There are masterpieces dated back to the 12th century. Roaming around the museum you will find several paintings by Velazquez and Goya. Continue a little further and you will be amazed (or horrified) by the amount of masterpieces this seemingly small building can hold. There is a breath of color in every painting, until you find the depressing black and white Spanish Civil War sketches. 

 

Walking around in the Prado is like walking through the history of Spain. Paintings, sketches, and sculptures dedicated to the ever-changing country are wonderful to see. 

The Prado museum is definitely a sight to see if visiting Madrid. Definitely worth the visit, this coming from an un-‘artsy’ person.

 

 

 

Spain is the capital of staged authenticity. 

 

When most people think of Spain, they automatically conjure an image of intense Flamenco-looking women, and bullfighters, and gypsy-sounding music. 

 

And why wouldn’t you?

 

Spain built most of its fortune in the 70s by campaigning through this image. This is one of the reasons it was able to blossom economically during the Franco regime (another image of Spain that NO ONE really talks about). Franco decided that any cultural diversity within Spain and its multiple regions was automatically unified to include one saucy image. This image of Spain (with the flamenco dancers, etc.) actually comes from Andalusia, the southern region of Spain. This means that all the other sections of Spain have their own unique cultural diversity, which does not showcase spicy flamenco dancers whatsoever. 

 

Madrid, the capital of Spain, has no authentic relationship to this image. The interesting concept of staged authenticity relates to the concept of tourism and mass advertising. If Spain was not portrayed by ancient writers, or sold by the government as this exotic european jungle, would anyone bother to come? 

 

Not to say that Madrid or Spain is not exotic, all I mean is that there are not any real Flamenco dancers or bullfighters walking around Plaza Mayor. 

 

Madrid has its unique cultural diversity, different from the various cities we’ve travelled to in Spain. But it is because of this staged authenticity that most people decided to visit in the first place, right? This is why, even though it technically and regionally shouldn’t, Madrid has staged Flamenco shows that charge people over 50 euros. It is this staged authenticity that people want and the people of Spain want to give.

 

I’m actually glad I get to visit and live in Madrid for three months. After a while, you have to stop looking for the staged authenticity of the city and find its real value. I avoid Sol, and other touristy areas, and stay within little hubs around the center of Madrid. These are the places that I have found have the true Spanish authenticity within them. 

 

You just feel different walking in these hubs than walking through Sol. 

 

When travelling through these beautiful countries and cities, I have to remember to make more of an effort to get past the staged authenticity and really get the true flavor of the city. Even if the city doesn’t want me to know it. 

 

After living in Madrid for 6 weeks, it is still intimidating living in a city that has seen so much history. Nonetheless, Spain is a country that is full of mystery which is hidden in its magnificent cities. Walking around Madrid or any European country, you’ll certainly find monuments and statues dedicated to an important event or historical person. To be honest, it’s daunting.

 

Day in and day out, living amongst these monuments that recall this unforgettable story of Spain’s past. How could I, a lonely foreigner, possibly understand all of these stories and complexities in a measly three months?

 

Kate Field shares my anguish. In the collection of stories of Spain In Mind by Alice Leccese Powers, the author Kate Field shares her short story “Ten Days in Spain.” In the short story, Field relinquishes on the agony of traveling through Spain and trying to process and retain all of it’s amazing history. She writes, “He had given me such an among that I ached from head to foot. I knew so much as to hope never to know anything again” (45). I think we can all relate with Field. Personally, I am always drained after participating in any sort of tour. There’s just so much information that it is exhausting trying to understand it all.

 

Field continues to describe her journey. She concludes that at the end of her guide she can relay that:

I was introduced to the town with much ceremony, and have and indefinite idea of its features, which are such a mixture of Goth, Moor, Jew and Christian that, at the end of six hours, I suffered from as acute an indigestion as though I had swallowed an architectural mince-pie (47). 

 

Living in Madrid and experiencing all that it has too offer is overwhelming, to say the least. Like Field, I too feel like all the information that these tours give us is too much to ‘digest.’ I must say, though, through this information the city is that much more magnificent. How would I ever know that the buildings I pass by or statues I see are full of historical significance that makes Madrid the beautiful city it is today?

I wake up in the morning trying to stay painfully quiet, for fear of waking up my roommate. The rest of my neighbors in my housestay apartment complex, however, do not feel the need to stay quiet at 7:30am. The sun in Madrid is not out until 7:45am-8am, so my room is completely in the dark. The walls are annoyingly thin and I can hear our neighbors cooking up breakfast and gettting ready to go to work or school.

I make my way to the bus stop, after eating a bowl (in a cup) of cereal and un cafe con leche, and get on the 147 towards Santiago Bernabeu, where our school is located. To be honest, I like the bus. I like the fresh air, and the ability to sit in one spot and arrive at my destination without having to transfer in some underground network. The subway and metro system here in Madrid is fabulous. Everything is clean and on time! 

Depending on whether it's Monday or Wednesday, I have class from 9am till 9pm or 5pm. Everything is spanish and everyone is passionate about their subjects. Of course I make my own lunch and bring it school to save a few euros. I sit with my friends in the courtyard and we chat about life and other various young subjects. I continue on my school day and finally get home where there is a tiny kitchen and 9 other roommates waiting for me. 

Cooking has become an entire household ordeal, since in Madrid dinner is around 9-10pm, the kitchen from 8pm-11pm is full of all my roommates trying to make their own concoctions of college food. I stick with my chicken and hot sauce. From then on, I either complement my meal with a glass of wine, or try to go to sleep.

Tuesdays and Thursday, and actually every other day that is not Monday or Wednesday is dedicated to homework. I recently started an internship at Helsinki Espana and got a part time job and started volunteering, so my "free" days have been filled. 

I am happy that I finally got the opportunity to fill up my time with these extra activities! I was so bored with all this free time, there's only so many times you can go out and act like a fool, right? Apparently, almost everyone in Madrid is ok with just chilling in the parks or sidewalks drinking a glass of wine, or beer. And trust me I'd be ok with that too if I just didn't have so much free time. Like others have mentioned in the course, finally finding a routine is comforting. It's this notion that our lives have finally started in this foreign place. I think having a routine and keeping busy is what separates the visitor from the visited. 

My parents come in a few days, and I was thrilled to look at my schedule and try to FIND time so I can see them as much as possible, instead of worrying about spending TOO much time and smother their vacation. It's these little things in life that make living abroad so worthwhile. 

Best of luck to those who are keeping busy! I know I am :)

Pic: The beautiful EMT bus of Madrid. Look how clean it is! 

Learning a new language, and in my case, refining that skill is truly incredible. In my life as a dual speaker, I’ve learned that there are just some things in life that are not translatable. Coming to Spain I am able to see life with these two gears.

Speaking on a day to day basis in a foreign language is not simple. Never in my life have I had to speak this much Spanish in my daily routine! Speaking to my señora is difficult because she uses her native colloquialisms and I use mine. Yes, we both speak the same language but we sometimes don’t have the same words to express ourselves in. These little challenges have made me reflect on the idea of language and how language differs through generations and regions.

My life in school is certainty different from back at the NYU campus. My classes are all in Spanish. I have never taken a politics class in Spanish before. Listening to my professor speak about the economic recession in Spanish, you can feel his fury and passion about the subject; something that I don’t think I’ve ever experienced before.

Listening to the Spaniards talk about life in Spanish brings a new perspective. Language is the ability to communicate life to others. It’s amazing to think that there are words in Spanish that don’t exist in English. Think about all of those verb tenses! Is it because the Spanish speakers see the world differently?

Communicating in Spain is not easy. But I’m not in a rush to learn everything. I have had difficulties in communicating and sometimes speaking but that’s part of the journey. After living here for 4 weeks, I’ve had my perspective on life change. Is it because of the Spanish way of living? Or because speaking in Spanish allows one to see life differently? Who knows?

I hate getting lost. The moment that you realize that you are lost in a foreign place, your heart sinks, your body temperature rises, and you try so hard to not *look* lost. Any guide book and knowledgeable traveller knows that the worse thing you can do when you are lost is to not look lost. Don’t stop. Don’t look around. Pretend nothing is happening.

 

And don’t ever take out your map. EVER.

 

Taking out your map when you’re lost is like placing the target on yourself as the “tourist.”  And none of us want to be the target of pickpocketers that will surely swarm to you when you take out your map, right?

 

Being lost in Madrid is scary. The buildings begin to melt together and I can swear I know where I am going. Was that orange building on the corner of my block? Or am I lost? Does that building look familiar because I’m going the right way or because I’ve been lost here before?

 

There are no words to describe the joy of FINALLY being able to get from school and home without the sickly feeling of disorientation. The happiness that comes when you have mastered the two metro lines that run by your home is truly indescribable.  

 

There’s also something beautiful about being lost in a foreign city. As a newcomer, I see the city in differently. The buildings are more beautiful, and the fountains look more mystical. Everything shines a little brighter when you find yourself lost in this amazing place. 

 

This is something that natives miss. I know that sometimes walking in the center of Los Angeles I see all of the tourists looking up in the sky, amazed by the sunshine and grand buildings, something that I have never done. 

 

Here in Madrid, I look up all the time. Everything is new and beautiful and I’m probably lost anyway so why not value the new place I’ve just walked into, right?

Terraza = outside patio

 

Sitting alone in a table on the terraza of a cafe in Madrid is a great experience, let me just tell you. There's this overwhelming tranquility and peace of mind sitting in a shade outside with pedestrians and daily traffic. The terrazas of Madrid are different from the regular restaurant patios in the United States. After a week in Madrid, I’ve learned that terrazas are a staple of Madrid culture.

 

Even before coming to Spain, I knew that the Spanish culture was completely different from the American culture. The movies, books, and people present an image of the Spaniards as a relaxed people. In comparison to most Americans, they seem to go at a slower speed. The reality is that, yes, the Spanish do seem less rushed than Americans. It doesn’t mean that they don’t work as hard. It just shows the Spanish culture is more than just work. 

 

It’s difficult to get used to this mindset. I see the people sit in the terrazas for hours without having to rush anywhere afterwards. The waiters are not rushing people out of their chairs. No one seems to be running with a bagel and coffee to an important meeting. Perhaps the reason may be that the people have a different sense of priorities here. Work is not as important as sitting and drinking a beer in the patios with friends or alone with a book. 

 

My new home is definitely going to teach me to relax and take a break. It’s difficult sitting in the terrazas for more than 20 minutes. Today, I stayed for over an hour and I was able to enjoy my food and think deeply about something more than what I had to do next. 

 

I highly suggest sitting alone in a restaurant eating your meal. Your senses are heightened and thoughts will probably go crazy but trust me everyone should do it at least once. If one decides to sit alone it isn’t because they are lonely or abandoned, perhaps they are just taking a break before going to a new place.

¡Hola chicos!

My name is Esthela Lopez. I'm a sophomore at Gallatin. Originally from Los Angeles, California and currently in the beautiful city of Madrid, Spain. I am still a bit undecided on my Gallatin concentration, but I’m looking towards cultural analysis and nonprofit management. I am definitely interested in various cultures, especially because I came from and go to large cities: LA, NYC, Madrid, etc. I love the concept of civic responsibility and I hope to see how different cultures abroad respond to such a concept. As a member of the Generation Y, I have seen several young people respond to the ‘call of duty’ and I would love to participate here in Madrid.

I have been in Madrid for about two days now, depending on what time zone you’re in. I was supposed to arrive three days ago but the whole hurricane Irene severely impacted my travel plans. I am still a bit jet lagged and haven’t really taken the opportunity to go sight seeing. I have taken advantage of siesta. Which, I might add, is a fantastic idea, and I encourage everyone to take advantage of it! Anyway, so far I have felt very comfortable in Madrid. Which is strange since I am typically someone who gets homesick very often. Ironically since I go to school so far away from home. I think it has to do with the weather of Madrid and the architecture. It feels like all the beautiful places I have ever been in one locale. 

Classes begin next Monday and I am definitely excited. I am taking primarily all Spanish culture classes in the Spanish language. As a native speaker, I don’t have any formal training in Spanish. I think my biggest challenge this semester might be thinking and learning in a formal Spanish setting. Let’s see how it goes!