13. Epiphanies
A Mannerist "Epiphany" of Sorts
One of my last days in Florence began with a trip to the Bargello Museum with two of my classmates. For our final project for Art collecting and Museology, we were required to curate an exhibition at a museum in Florence, and we chose the Bargello, my personal favorite museum in Florence (it’s got Donatello’s David). Once we were through planning our exhibition, I left my classmates and decided to go grocery shopping. The grocery store I most often frequent is one that is across the Ponte Vecchio, which, at this time of year, is impossible to get across without taking out a few tourists.
Since I got to Florence, I had been hoping to see Pontormo’s Deposition, but for some reason had not taken the time to actually find it. I knew it was in the church of Santa Felicita, close to the Ponte Vecchio, but had always been in too much of a hurry across the Ponte Vecchio to remember to go to this church. Since it was one of my last days, I decided I would take the time to find it, despite looming final papers and projects.
Literally one block past my grocery store was the Piazza Santa Felicita. Everything in Florence has strange hours, so part of me was afraid it wasn’t going to be open. Thankfully, the doors were open, and I entered. This small church took me by surprise. I gaped at its beauty and began to search for the Deposition, a quest that took about 10 seconds, as the legendary painting is located directly to the visitor’s right hand side upon entering.
I stared at it in the dim church lighting and wondered why it wasn’t lit better. This is a Mannerist painting, after all. Let me see the colors! A group of American tourists entered after me, loudly asking one another for a euro. (They obviously knew this system better than me) An old lady in the church quickly shushed them, and I showed them I had a euro, which I then proceeded to stick in a machine that immediately lit up the small chapel.
I stood there with my head pressed against the gate of the chapel, eyes agape at the tangible motion and luminescent colors until the lights went out.
Then I went grocery shopping.
(for reference)
Coming Home
I traveled for two weeks straight before I came back to Paris. On the morning I was to leave Berlin to go back to Paris, I had nervous flutters in my stomach. I was excited to come “home.”
Paris has become a home of sorts for me and I always thought it would but it wasn’t until I felt so safe and comfortable coming back to it from travelling that I found that it was even more of a home than I had realized. Humming the theme to Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris (which I later realized was actually the theme to Up), I boarded the plane back to France. I had never been so happy to hear French spoken in my life. (I had actually gotten tired of/ annoyed by the sound of it before I left for my Spring break country-hopping excursion). Although mostly everyone had spoken English in the countries I visited, it was so lovely to be back where I could speak the native language. (And just in time for the arrival of my Uncle, his girlfriend, my parents and my sister).
I was lucky enough to get to return to Paris to rediscover it through their fresh eyes. Although my parents have been here before, they are still amazed by the beauty of Paris. As their tour guide, I realized that I know a lot more about Paris than I had thought (even just things as mundane as I know how to navigate the metro fairly well – I successfully navigated us to the original Shakespeare and Co where I took this picture of my Mom and her newly bought book). I’m loving getting to show them around this city that I have come to know in a language that I love to speak.
Yesterday, while walking through le Marais, admiring the beautiful sky and basking in the newly lovely weather (it’s been raining a lot here), my Mom said “you are going to miss this, aren’t you?” And it was the first time that I realized that I am really going to miss Paris. Yes, I am ready to go home in many ways but I will miss speaking French and being in the most beautiful city in the world. I must in enjoy my last ten days of Paris and this gorgeous Spring weather.
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Reflections on this Class before my Vacation to Antigua (JK LOL)
When considering texts such as Orwell’s Down and Out in Paris & London, we see that, although with a faked sense of depravity, the author regardlessly lives the life of a traveler in the most unwanted way. Earlier in class today, we talked about the aspect of Hide and Seek in which changing one’s posture alters his or her view of the place. Similarly, if one travels in a different way, not going the same route in terms of hotels, tours, five-star restaurants, then the traveler may experience an unparalleled experience abroad.
After reading the texts of Morris and Davidson, I understood that traveling, or being a first-order tourist in Iyer’s perspective, could heavily depend on the people and memories that the place incited. Watching the video today in which tourists drew the picture of the building rather than take a picture of it simply to remember the place and overall memory better brought me to think about the differences in traveling with or without people. Although Mahoney does not seem to want companionship along the trip, she never acts alone. Through her day-to-day interactions, she ultimately makes her own decisions, but relies on the help of others in order to make those goals a reality. Among Morris, Davidson, and Mahoney, the three directly or indirectly use the people surrounding them to paint the picture of the place. The reason why, in my opinion, many students found Kincaid’s piece both annoying and repetitive was because the author failed to use any descriptive narrative to portray the beauties of Antigua and the people of the land. Instead, she chose to focus on the effects of tourism rather than the causes—the interactions.
Lastly, in this week’s text by De Botton, I still cannot help but feel excited over the idea of making the old new again. Like any other fashion trend or DIY project, the recycling of the obsolete into the new inspires me to re-question every “taken-for-granted” place by searching the nooks and crannies, establishing rules of travel, and acknowlging the every-confusing concept of time in that we never have time, ever—we simply create levels in which it exists (semester of college, family vacation, etc). However, we need to try to look at every place anew, regardless of the day, time, or overall routine.
The Race Talk
Unfortunately, the fact that so many students had chosen not to attend the program was a source of tension for the next few months. It was fertile territory for assumptions to made, misunderstandings to blossom. At some points it was unbearable, and at some points it as barely noticed; the tension fluctuated from group to group, individual to individual. For me, it was the source of many conversations with unexpected people and unexpected conclusions. It wasn’t the conversion topic I preferred, but they were conversations worth having. And when the program re-screened the documentary, the turnout more than doubled, and was followed by an interesting and honest discussion.
I’ve never really thought deeply about issues of race before, mostly because I consider race such a non-issue. People are people, and race is just a concept we came up with out our fever and confusion. We come from different places and may look different, may even think differently, but in my opinion race is just about as important as hair color. Ascribed, but cosmetic. Subject to change based on identity and word choice. Plenty of people do not think this way; I knew that before I arrived in Accra. But being here with forty other Americans, in constant dialogue about race, I realized just how much baggage Americans as a culture carry about race, about class and background and ethnicity as heritage. Whereas most countries claim a native population, their own people, the United States does not have a majority group in this way. Instead we are a country of entirely immigrants, voluntary or forced, having marginalized the people who were native to our vast country. We carry the history of our ancestors, or our lack of it, on our backs as a weight on our identity. We chase our heritage all over the globe and look for the home our families lost as they fled or were taken. And we carry this weight with us when we leave, and place it on the shores of some new country, hoping they will take that weigh away.
(The image is mine, taken at the Independence Day celebrations.)
The Ethnography of Language (of Self)
So here I am, in Buenos Aires, in Argentina, in South America, a predominantly Spanish-speaking continent (save Brazil, the Guyanas and Suriname). And this place I’m in is defined by all of these characteristics. And the inhabitants of this place are here because they speak Spanish, or this place exists because Spanish is spoken. A reciprocal relationship reigns; language, place, and people are inextricably connected.
I suppose one could label that my ‘epiphany’ of sorts, particularly because it is something that can only be noted once placed outside of one’s home country. I am from the United States. I speak English. I am a student, I learn Spanish; I travel to Argentina, I use that Spanish. I live in Buenos Aires, I adapt to the porteño, castellano accent. It’s all very simple, with some parts inherent and others a process (and others still an inherent process). But what are the further implications of being in a place where they speak Spanish, a language I struggle to perfect? I’m sure several language and travel theorists have explored this exact issue, but I am far from being well read enough to know just whom they are. Thus the attempt is my own.
Knowing a second language is extremely beneficial, and encouraged in education globally. Learners are able to construct different realities within these different languages, without even knowing it. These different realities are primarily based off of culture associated with the language… for example: if I were to say the word lunch one would think of generally a sandwich or a salad or something of that sort, but if I were to say almuerzo, one may think of something more common for lunch in either Spain or Latin America. Beyond these cognitive, linguistic abilities, however, there’s another branch to linguistics directly related to this: linguistic anthropology, or the “ethnography of speaking.”
So I go to a café and have my respective almuerzo and I go to school and I run errands and I take the bus and I am speaking Spanish within all of these daily activities. And the people I know and see are formed in my mind as being who they are because they speak Spanish, because I speak Spanish with them, whether they are originally from Argentina or not. I have travelled to Chile and Uruguay now, and the Spanish there is different, and of course differs anywhere you go. But the Spanish here in Buenos Aires is now my Spanish, and porteños and travelers alike can attain cultural identity via their special way of speaking the language. And so I have come to realize that all the Spanish I learned has been completely altered, to a new reality, because I finally exist within a Spanish-speaking place and interacting with its inhabitants, and that reality constructed and based on my first second language is now my own, personal reality. And so this ethnography of speaking I am undergoing reaches beyond cultural and social identity, and touches upon my own identity.
Epiphanies
Going back to the Navajo Reservation every summer since I was five years old prepared me for this semester long excursion more than I could ever give it credit. Of course I never appreciated my culture back then. I’ll admit that even after living there for a summer in 2010 I still wasn’t fully invested in getting to know my Navajo roots. It wasn’t until coming here, to Ghana, that I see the parallels my own culture has with Ghanaian culture. While the images of poverty might be striking and burdensome to my roommates, all I feel are the memories of the reservation come rushing back and the anger boiling up inside of me because similar conditions exist in our own country. I feel lucky that I’m able to teach my friends here a lot about the similarities between Native American and African cultures and tell them about how my mother grew up and the stories of my own experiences on the reservation. I especially enjoy talking to my mom about everything and hearing her personal opinion about it all.
Sadly, my biggest “epiphany” has been how desensitized I’ve become to certain disturbing images. The rural areas we go into and the shanty towns we’ve walked through are all places that I’ve seen and stayed in myself. My mother grew up in conditions very similar. The fact that dogs and cats are not domestic animals and are not treated as such was something I struggled when we would go to the reservation throughout my entire childhood. I see these things here every single day and I no longer fight or give into the sadness they used to bring me. Instead I feel even more energized to go back and spend time with my clan. I want to embrace my culture and learn as much about it as I can. I want to go back and volunteer and show my support, because without any of these things my culture is slowly dwindling away. Ghana has taken me back to my origin and reignited a fire I thought I lost when I moved away.
My Limited View of the City
There are many factors that have contributed to my introversion to the safe, upper class, gentrified areas of Buenos Aires. To begin with, Buenos Aires is an enormous city. The urban center has nearly three million residents and greater Buenos Aires has almost twelve million. It is 126 square miles (I’m not including the outside provinces) in size compared to Manhattan, which is only 23 square miles. In other words, it’s huge. It takes considerable amounts of time to move from neighborhood to neighborhood, even by taxi. The city has a very complete bus system but they move very slowly during traffic and the subway is fast, but very dangerous and there is not one convenient to my house.
The neighborhoods that I spend time in are Recoleta, Palermo and sometimes Puerto Madero and San Telmo, which are both really cool neighborhoods, but are further and located in burgeoning areas. The neighborhoods where I spend time have the most to offer in terms of contemporary, interesting restaurants, bars, museums and galleries. The great majority of Argentine restaurants have steak, empanadas and not much else to offer so by this time, I’m very tired of the local fare and am constantly in search of creative, vegetable-filled meals.
The truest reason that I don’t explore other areas of Buenos Aires is that the city has not yet become integrated socioeconomically. This not only means that the less developed neighborhoods have little draw other than run down residences and local, mediocre restaurants, but they are not safe for tourists to wander around. Overall Buenos Aires is a fine place to be, but I stick out as a local for the way I dress and my curly hair.
I would like to be the person who has discovered every inch of the city. This isn’t to say that I don’t explore, I go into other neighborhoods such as La Boca where the soccer stadium is near the docks, but only when I have a specific destination in mind. In my opinion, Buenos Aires still has a long way to go in terms of infrastructure, overall city cleanliness and socioeconomic divide before it can be a truly united city. For now, the rich live their lives separate from the poor and unfortunately, I’ve been placed on one side; keeping me from the other. I hope in the future when I visit Buenos Aires, other neighborhoods will have emerged and the city will be entirely, as lovely and culturally fulfilling as the parts I have come to know and love.
The image is train tracks that run through the city. Oftentimes, you even must cross train tracks to change neighborhoods (cue obvious metaphor).
An Epiphany or Further Confusion?
Well, I recently had drinks with an older Colombian man, and at one point in our conversation (keep in mind that we are talking in Spanish and I’m only an intermediate speaker, meaning that I am not at all eloquent and have a semi-pathetic vocabulary), I mentioned that I would like to live in South America eventually, possibly even Buenos Aires. And when I said “live,” I meant settle down here, have kids here, grow old here…at least that’s what I think I meant. He asked me why I wanted to live here and my response was… well it wasn’t much of a response. I told him that I felt more connected to the culture here than I did to my own back home and that it was something about the people – they seem friendlier, more open and willing to start a conversation with or help a stranger.
His answer to me was an honest one, without pretension or condescension: you don’t know this culture. You’re only here for four months as a student and it takes years to know one city, one country. What could I say to that? Though I love all the experiences I’ve had in Buenos Aires and Argentina – and it’s not like I regret coming here or anything like that – they have ultimately been fleeting and piecemeal. I have had windows into Argentine culture and understand the way some cultural customs work as well as daily life. But my knowledge of this place still has so many holes; for example, one thing that always throws things into perspective is that Buenos Aires has 38 or so barrios and I have set foot in less than 10 of them.
My time here has been split between getting to know the city, adapting to daily life as a student, and slowly shedding my North American preconceptions of Argentina and “South America” as I become more informed through my daily interactions with people, the media, and anything else that crosses my path. But that answer, and all these thoughts now, lead me to question what our motives and are goals are when we study abroad for a semester. What do we hope to gain and what remains beyond our understanding by the time we prepare to leave? Do we always retain an outsider’s perspective as foreign travelers, or is there a point when we finally break through to the other side?
Concerning Epiphanies
Cue exasperated heavy sigh.
Despite my resolution, Fate’s omniscient hand in dealing me adversary every time I make a concrete decision has not been stayed since arrival in Berlin. Every day is a struggle to maintain contact with him while we both lead very, very separate lives, and I feel every mile acutely as I experience and embrace every new thing that Berlin offers me. Even now, with an approximate month left in the program I find myself forgetting what it feels like to be with him.
This struggle has not left me without any sort of realizations that come with the territory, however. In the adjustment of living without my significant other, I find myself realizing that when in the States I would ask such mundane things like “do they have pharmacies there?”, “where am I going to buy feminine products?”, and most stupid of them all, “how am I going to get groceries?” As if Germans did not have all these things: grocery stores, hot sauce, tampons, dogs, Salami. I could even hear the sarcastic abrading voice of my best friend: “Yeah, even the Germans have boyfriends Theresa. They’re not much different than you.”
Yeah, I suppose they aren’t. But silly me, for some reason I thought life would be different here in so many fundamental ways. For some stupid reason I thought that Germans don’t have tampons. But it took me a second look and the loss of something that used to be a daily part of my life for me to realize that running away to a different country does not fundamentally change what is necessary for humans to live. Food, clothing, shelter. All can be found in every society. So what if I don’t know the language perfectly? All the fundamentals for living are present in the fabric of the place I have relocated to.
Just as these things foster living, however, what became a more important realization is the understanding that living is not the same as being happy. This different country, while beautiful and interesting and full of life was not what I need from the world. All my life I have had the tendency to run far away from the things I knew to search for something better. It was the reason I left Minneapolis to go to New York, and left New York to go to Berlin. In being here, though, I understood that I wasn’t in the pursuit of something better. I realized if I kept running that I would be wandering the world my entire life searching for something better when in fact I was looking for something I was missing within: a deep seated confidence and security, a home in myself. What was most important to me in that moment was to not look for anything better but be happy with what I have, what I can grow with the tools I already have. As this term ends, I am happy to have had this realization, for I know for certain that I would not have had this without the unique situation given me.
They say that God will not give us more than we can handle in certain circles. I firmly believe that though Fate seems to be unrelenting, I am blessed to have had this “appearance of God” here.
Pushin' It Under the Rug
All this talk from friends back home on the topic of the now hugely popular music festival Coachella has had me, after having my first German music festival experience, pondering the strange sense of differences I noticed while in my post-festival after-glow. Ringing close to other experiences I've had in Berlin, I found the festival goers dressed modestly and carefully, drunk but not abrasive, dancing in the afore-mentioned “two-step” fashion, and isolated in their demeanor. Coachella was, for me, mostly the opposite experience as people were wildly running around kissing each other, trading rave candy, yelling cheers that rapidly spread throughout the campsite like a common chorus, and dressed, well, almost undressed I would say.
This is a place where I can understand why people think Americans are crazy when they come to Germany. It's because we are, it's our way. I'm making the broad, vague statement to agree with the notion that Germans (perhaps this extends to all Europeans) are a little bit more casual, yet more cultured, and less wild. As debatable as our freedom is nowadays in the states, we American slike to think we are generally free spirited, free in the head, as well as often bonkers. We are often given free reign in terms of our characteristics, and to be wild, especially in a festival situation much like what I imagine a Bacchic festival was like, is not to be ab-normal. Germans often seem to not dance like we do, perhaps not absorbing pop culture like a strange hungry sponge, they seem to not subscribe to "free-hippie love" so openly. They often don't seem to want to trade things, bracelets, kisses, hugs, life-stories, or clothes so often as we do. And from what I recently learned, they don't like to admit, unlike us complaining Americans, their culture is flawed (unless, of course, you're talking about that terrible war).
One reason I say this is because I've recently learned about May Ayim, the now-deceased launcher of the Afro-Deusche movement. She was the first person to bring to public/academic light racism in Germany. When she proposed studying in in her post-graduate career, professors plainly told her Germany “has no such thing” and that, and I didn't know this, racism was an idea born from and explored in America. Obviously, from evidence, the whole problem had been made, for over 400 years, invisible, like a lot of the other xenophobic and racist practices against the Turks and the Roma. Evidence: Nobody would notice this, but there's been a Holocaust memorial to the murdered Roma peoples that has been left unfinished and “under construction” for over a decade. It's literally a pond. Obviously America has an entire host of problems extremely comparable to this, and we don't see our government raising memorials to the people we killed, but the realization that Europe, Germany, is not the liberal, free wonderland I imagined it to be has been an unexpected shock.
Thinking in Taxis
This ‘other Abu Dhabi’ hits me anytime I have to walk somewhere. In my perception of Abu Dhabi, it is not a pedestrian city at all. I take cabs everywhere I go, because they are very cheap, and the city is spread out. But on the rare occasion that I need to go somewhere that is only a few blocks away, I am consistently SHOCKED about how many people are out on the street, not taking cabs, but getting to where they are getting on foot! It isn’t that I’m not aware of it of course, but that I don’t think about it until it is right in front of me, showing me the ‘other.’
In classes, my research, here on the blog, and with my NGO- Trail of Seeds, I constantly preach against ‘us v. them’ dichotomies, but it is naïve to pretend that we are not living them in so many different ways! I think that it is important to accept that we must operate in them to some extent- we can’t reject how life is- but we can work so that we do not perpetuate the negative qualities that go against human rights. How exactly to do this, I still don’t know and I’m still exploring, but I see that even the simplest change in our own perceptions of power dynamics is effective.
The moment of realization that involves this point came last night when I was talking with a group of friends about taking taxis. I was telling different stories about conversations I have had with drivers and explained that I always ask them questions to try and learn their perspective on Abu Dhabi, which I think is good in trying to eliminate some of this system- by understanding it. I then said something about how I always sit in the back, and everyone got confused. The majority of my friends thought that it was hypocritical to try and learn about hierarchies while so clearly sustaining one. I was surprised to find out that most of my friends, especially the guys, always sat in the passenger seat, the littlest attempt at equality. Of course we cannot immediately change the system that in Abu Dhabi people from certain countries drive people from other certain countries around. But by showing mutual respect and interest, we CAN make some positive change.
epiphanies
I look out my balcony and watch the cars and the people go by, they never look up, oblivious that they are being watched. When it is evening these same people march on through the darkness, nothing has changed except the larger power above us all, out of our control, which makes the world go dark and lighten up on its organized schedule. Perhaps these people are coming back from a long day at work in the evening, starving, tired. We are human beings all on the same clock. I look out my balcony and I see rooftops and buildings and balconies and windows and laundry lines, and I know that it can be any city.
Everything is a twenty hour bus ride away in Argentina. It surprised us too...The map is so misleading.
On Continental 63 From Los Angeles to Buenos Aires I looked at the little drawing of our airplane on the little map on the the little tv screen and saw that we were almost there, excited that we had entered the continent of South America. The screen changed to blue and then I read Time to destination: 6 hours.
This world is enormous, and look at me, a little tiny human being crossing it. But in this city I see just a city. Cities are projects of human beings, and human beings live in every city. There are buildings and cars and stores and rooftops and buses and TV and Shampoo and Conditioner and hungry people and lonely people and books. There are museums and advertisements and electrical lines and ballet teachers and people studying the meaning of justice.
Is it globalization? Or is it just humanity?
I took a twenty hour bus ride to Northern Argentina this ‘spring’ break and realized how many mountains, how much empty land, how many tiny pueblos there are outside of this city. I realized how much the earth expands and imagined the amount it probably encompasses. I wonder how much of it is actually the same and how much it can actually differ. The problem is that there is too much to actually know, or to even imagine. That’s when I realized that after I graduate I have to come back to travel. From the southern tip of South America to the Northern and then all the way to East Asia. It is too interesting to ignore…
Less Travel, Please?
When I first came to Florence, I spent the first few weeks meeting friends and explored the city with these friends. I thought weekdays in Florence would be enough and I could use the weekends to travel to other cities in Europe with these friends. A group of us organized low cost trips using Ryanair to visit Frankfurt, Palermo, Prague, Barcelona, Oslo, Stockholm and Paris. I was so impressed and excited for the amount of stuff we could do at such a cheap price, however I didn’t take into consideration the amount of effort and time it takes to travel to these places.
I couldn’t be happier with all of the places that I choose to visit. Although, after experiencing the low budget trips, I learned that it is not smart to try to see everything all at once. This means I shouldn’t have tried to do Stockholm and Olso within 2 days, and also learned that I shouldn’t have tried to fit more than 7 cities into one semester abroad.
I had my epiphany when I was reminded recently that I go back to New York in three weeks! That can't be possible, I still have so much to see in Florence, I just got comfortable here, I am not ready to leave! While I spent four months here, I learned that I should have spent less time traveling and more time becoming a Florentine. Once I had this epiphany, I decided that a three day trip to Paris is not worth the 5 hours of travel. I would not be able to “love” Paris in 3 days, it takes a semester or even a year to truly know a city. I have been to Paris and have done all of the “necessary” touristy spots. If I was to go to Paris, I would want to spend a longer amount of time learning French or the culture. Therefore I decided to refund this trip and spend my last three weeks in my enchanting home, Florence.
This epiphany taught me that I have to value the time I have in current places, and there is no rush to see everything at once. I believe I value the tourist attractions such as il Duomo or Piazza Signoria more than I did when I first got here; now that I have lived here and learned about the city, I have more of a personal connection with the sites around me.
Epiphanies
Now, as I wait for the bus each morning, I know that I need to show up at least fifteen minutes early. The bus, which is usually scheduled to arrive around 8:20 can show up anywhere from 8:08 to 8:35. Frustrating? Absolutely, but no one seems to care. I cannot believe I am actually saying this, but I am definitely going to miss the Italian lifestyle. Hopefully, I’ll be able to combine my fast-paced life in New York with the relaxing lifestyle of Italy to find the perfect balance.












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